The Unbelievable Beauty of Budapest; Hungary

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Cruising the Danube River at Sunset // Budapest, Hungary

Going into the trip, I knew barely a handful of things about Budapest. I knew that its Parliament Building was the Gothic charmer of my dreams, that Paprika was the #1 export and that Goulash was something I HAD TO try, but other than that, I was ready to let this Hungarian hideaway surprise me. And that it did!

Not knowing what to expect, you could imagine my eyes wide as wide could be when first driving through the city. EVERYTHING was so regal looking. The buildings were gorgeous, the monuments, towering. I was blown away at my first impression. We stayed in Terézváros, Budapest's VI district, on the "PEST" side of the Danube. Budapest was formerly two separate cities: Buda sitting on the west bank of the river and Pest on the right. In 1873, shortly after the Austro-Hungarian compromise, the cities merged to create a Twin Capital City for the dual Monarchy. Many bridges stretch over the Danube connecting the more flat and urban Pest to Buda's green, quiet, fairytale hill tops. 

The Chain Bridge from the Buda Side looking towards Pest // Budapest, Hungary

Reading on, I will break down our sites, eats and more based upon which side of the river we roamed. 

PEST: 

New York Cafe:

Something we noticed immediately while here is; you will NEVER go hungry in Hungary. There are ENDLESS options and seemingly a restaurant on every corner. Nosh the goulash and eat the cakes! One place in particular to pop in for a cocktail and cake is

Minimalism is not the motif in Budapest. The more decor, the better, as you can tell with this masterpiece of a building. Not only did the beautiful atmosphere set the tone for our afternoon cocktail, but so did the pianist who played "The Greatest Love of All" by Whitney Houston. Let me tell you, it will be an afternoon snack you won't forget! After your grub, get above the city with some stellar views at St. Stephens.

St. Stephen's Basilica 

Budapest from a top St. Stephen's Basilica  // Budapest, Hungary 

It is 500 Hungarian Forint (HUF) to climb the tower - in USD $1.78. Insane views for less than $2! The beauty seen atop the Basilica is truly breathtaking. This is a North West view of the city from atop the 364 step ascension. You can take the elevator, but what fun is that?! We shared some quiet moments taking in the view. In that time I realized that this place might be one of the most beautiful I will visit in my lifetime. 

After we rubbed our eyes and made sure this wasnt indeed a dream, we spent the rest of the day exploring and eating up the culture. Literally. 

 

Hungarian State Opera House

If you have the means to see an Opera in Budapest - TAKE IT. Hungary in known for there dramatic Opera's and the Hungarian State Opera House is a stunning statement piece in the heart of PEST. Unfortunately June/July are its off season - so plan accordingly!

Legenda; Duna Bella Cruise:

Before we start up about the BUDA end of the city, I want to encourage everyone to ride the waves in between. Shawn and I both agreed that the HIGHLIGHT of our time in Budapest was a sunset river cruise on the Danube. The experience was 3,900 HUF which translates to $13.95 USD. Insanely affordable. We chose the 6:30pm Duna Bella cruise from Legenda Sightseeing Boats. We booked the day before and had no issue with getting tickets - but as always, "better safe than sorry." Book in advance during peak season - you won't be disappointed. It was perfection! With champagne in our hands we set sail on a golden Daunbe and witnessed the shores of this amazing city like no other.

 

Everything felt SO walkable in Budapest. We spent a day across the bridge getting to know BUDA a little better. Quant and quieter, we took the afternoon to find romance and more stunning vantage points.

BUDA: 

Fisherman's Bastion: 

No matter where you stand, this city sparkles. In doing my research I remembered this white castle-looking attraction that allured me. It was Fisherman Bastion - hands down the visually most unique site I have visited in Europe. During the Middle Ages, local fisherman defended this span of city walls, hence it's name. The sprawling terrace sits directly next to Matthias Church - another neo-gothic masterpiece. 

This is the best spot to get a gorgeous  panoramic view of Pest.

Buda Castle and In Between:

Between Fishermans Bastion and Buda Castle is a sweet little stretch of shops, eateries and idyllic alley ways. Take your time and stroll. Buy some paprika. Take home a Hungarian doll. Savor your moments!

Buda Castle can be seen from just about ANYWHERE in Budapest. It is hard to miss atop the highest hill. The castle and its grounds can provide ENDLESS entertainment. There are museums galore, restaurants, tours, festivals and beyond. I would absolutely suggest looking into what the museum has to offer if you should choose to visit. A new Picasso exhibit had just opened at the Hungarian National Gallery before our arrival. Jackpot!

Budapest was undeniably, hands-down the jewel of the trip. I would HIGHLY recommend anyone going to this beautiful and storied city. Shawn and I knew this Eastern European trip was going to be the most challenging when it came to language. 5 new countries, all with vastly different ways of communicating. Though we always find it respectful and appropriate to study the basic phrases before touching-down - most everyone spoke English and happily. Aside from being a breathtaking city, the US Dollar goes FAR here. It absolutely must be a stop on your next excursion abroad! 

Here is the rest of the highlight reel. Reliving this gives me all the feels!

 

Preserve Your Penny:

  • Simply Go to Budapest! The US Dollar goes far there. Shawn rationed $200 for 4 days in Budapest and  after still came out in the green ! You can really do and see so much here with very little spent! 
  • Use your benefits! Every attractions offers great student and senior discounts! Bring your ID verifying and you are set!

The Where To's: 

Where to Grab a Bite (Yellow): Jamie Oliver's, Chagall, Iguana Bar & Grill, Pesti Disznó, La Pampa, Domi's Bake Shop

Where to Grab a Drink (Red): Müvész Kávéház, New York Cafe, Cech In, Pontoon, Simple Kert Ruin Pub, Instant Ruin Bar, Biergarten

Where to Stop and Look Around at All the Beauty (Green): All Places mentioned above with a few others to boot! 

I hope when planning your next big adventure, you consider this unbelievable beauty! Your dollar goes far, and the sites are incredible! 

xx

Sara De

 

 

 

At Home in Rome; Trastevere, Roma

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Calm morning along the Tiber // Rome, Italy

I spent some time in Rome last Spring. It was my first time to Italy and truthfully it rocked my world; So much so that we made it a point to spend the first  couple days of this Eastern European trip in the Eternal City again.

Rome is one of the world's most sought after cities with 7-10 million travelers cycling through year after year, and rightfully so. There are endless activities to fill up any week-long schedule. Below, I am going to share a few of my favorite memories and let you in on Roma's most precious secret; Trastevere. 

Even if there weren't endless things to do in this amazing city, you could spend your entire allotment simply roaming its picturesque streets and stopping off for the most delicious food on every corner. To get the most out of our experience last year, we went ahead and purchased the ROMA Pass. With a one time payment of  € 39 you have access to a slue of Roman sites, museums and landmarks over a 72 hour period.  With visits to the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Circus Maximus, and Palatine Hill we put our pass to use right away - Not to mention, the ROMA Pass gives you unlimited/free access to public transportation all around Rome! Definitely something I would recommend for a first timer! 

This time around there was less on the agenda leaving more room for flexible site seeing and absolutely more room in the agenda for pasta. Lots and lots of pasta. To get our appetites up we needed to set out on the town and get our walking feet moving. We had our eyes set on two main sites: The Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel and The Trevi Fountain. Last year, the Trevi Fountain was under construction so we were unable to see it in all of its glory. As for the Vatican, there is MUCH to cover, so a-lotting a full morning to its expansive grounds in necessary.

June in Rome is no joke, but we were excited about being back in our favorite country and ready to roll with the heat and hectic-ness.

The Vatican:

 The Vatican City is an entire country in and of itself surrounded by Roman lines. Think about that, the Vatican is its own country! Crazy! If you are to ever visit Rome, visiting the Vatican, St. Peter's Basilica and the grounds many museums and gardens is a MUST. Michelangelo outdid himself on this one!

Shawn and sara sneak a picture of the sistine chapel // The Creation of adam is directly above

Any given day can be a busy one. Book your tickets in advance for a morning visit! I suggest the morning because depending on the day of the week, sites like the Sistine Chapel and the Basilica close early to prepare for Pope audiences or other occasions hosted in the Holy City.  Sometimes the most effective way to ensure that you even get into the exhibits in a timely manor is through a tour agency. Now, typically, we are travelers who have little interest in tour groups and like to do the exploring and investigating on our own but with the Vatican, tour groups are almost necessary. We did an English speaking tour through Maya Tours Roma . Our tour guide Deborah with a zesty Italian woman with so much to share and was a seasoned guide, totally kicking butt through the large crowds all while giving an informative experience. 

After the Vatican, it was mid day and time to eat! You can find food everywhere in Rome, just do your homework. Try to avoid places that look designed for tourists. Yelp and Trip Advisor are your friends! If the menu is in more than 2 languages, and mostly pictures: avoid it. If the patio is filled with Aperol Spritz drinking, Italian Speakers, you know you have found the right place! Take a few extra moments to get the Italian food of your dreams! Below I will list a few of my favorites! Read on!

If you prepare for it, Rome is quite the walkable city. If you are there in the Summer just know that a water bottle, comfortable shoes and some patience through the crowds will be necessary. Also, the city of Rome has flowing water fountains almost on every corner. Clean and safe to drink, this makes for filling-up on the go a breeze! We were in the mood for a bit more water so next, we head over to the Trevi Fountain to make a wish and see what the year prior had not allowed us.

The Trevi Fountain: 

Nicola Salvi's - The Trevi Fountain

When in Rome, you do as the Roman's do - but only after you have finished all the touristy stuff. It's impossible to avoid. You go to Rome for the food and the zest and the wine and the joy but truthfully you must see many of the works created by the artists, politicians and clergymen before you. They are truly spectacular and that is why visiting the Trevi Fountain is something to do while finding your way through Roma. 

The fountain is situated in central Rome nestled between the Pantheon and the Spanish Steps. It is something you could stumble upon if you weren't being intentional. 30 years in its construction, the fountain is a prize of the Eternal City paying homage to Baroque style and the story of Rome and its iconic aqueducts. 

Take a few moments to marvel at its size & beauty. It is customary to throw a coin into the fountain using your right hand over your left shoulder. Make a wish !

Revel the city you are in because it is truly a Crown Jewel of the world. To me, Rome (and all of Italy for that matter) is a region of wonder. I come to LIFE when I visit and I hope you do to. There is a particular neighborhood in Rome where I feel truly at peace and that is in Trastevere. Just over the Tiber river, this quaint and often unnoticed treasure stirs with its buzzing night life, picture perfect piazzas and food that will rock your world.  We have stayed in this neighborhood both times during our Roma stays and I feel genuinely at home there. 

Trastevere: 

When we first decided to visit Rome early last year, I didnt know where to start. A close friend pointed me in the direction of dreamy Trastevere and since then, we were hooked. This is a very special part of the city. Out of the way of the central bustle, this little nook below the Vatican comforts you with all the joy's of Rome. The vines grow wild, wine is shared at all hours, and the pop-up cinema's make Summer even more magical. 

Santa Maria Basilica and its Piazza is a perfect place to share a meal and a gelato on the fountain at dusk. The metro runs straight through the middle of town in case walking over the river in the hot sun seems too much. The smell of pizza dough fills the air and the twinkling lights over head illuminate it. It is my perfect neighborhood. Artisanal shops, the finest bakeries, and crafty merchants line the streets. Oh, and Gelato; did I mention endless amounts of Gelato?! 

I am in love with this place. We feel most in love in this place. It is good for our souls. 

We always make it a point to share at least one fancy meal in each city we travel before we leave. Vacation is about "treating yo-self" after all! On our last night in Rome we chose Taverna Trilussa to dine and BOY OH BOY did it leave a mark on us! Starting with a local Lazio bottle of Vino we surveyed the menu with wide eyes and hungry guts. Shawn went in blindly ordering the Ravioli Mimosa alla suggestion of our waiter, Adriano. I was set on the Bucatini all' Amatriciana. 

Everything was perfect. The ambiance, both on the ivy covered patio and indoors with hanging racks of cured meats, was perfect. I felt like I was in the heartbeat of Italy; Fluttering with each new bite of my delicious food. It didnt matter that I had slept 45 mins the night before (Thanks Jet-Lag!) I was wide awake, filled up to my puffy eyeballs with pasta, wine and true, uncontrollable, so-happy-I-could-die, love.

The Where To's:

Have Dinner: Taverna Trilussa, ai Spaghetteri, il Ciak, Galeassi (All in the Trastevere Area)

Have Gelato: Fonte Della Salute, Don Nino

Be sure to also explore: The Pantheon (my favorite monument in Rome), The Colosseum,  and attend mass at Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena

Go Shopping:

Designer - Via del Corso, Via del Babuino, Via Ripetta, Via Condotti, Via Frattina, Via Borgognona. These are all grid-like shopping streets crossing over one another around the Spanish Steps. Via del Babuino is the mother-load leading straight to the opening of the Spanish Steps draped with designer labels. 

For the standard shopper - There is some pretty great shopping between Piazza Di Barberini and the Trevi Fountain. Get lost a while and window shop. You will hit a slue of shops past the fountain near Piazza Colonna like Zara and Calvin Klein. There is even an AS Roma store for your boyfriend to peruse while you finish your spending. 

Catch a Breath-Taking View - Minerva Roof Garden or Canonne del Gianicolo 

There is so much more to say about this magical city. Italy is the one place I have visited thus far that has felt "like home" to me. Whether it be in the heart of the hustle in Rome, finding peace in Vatican City, sitting above the bell towers at Canonne del Gianicolo or sipping in the shade in gorgeous Trastevere - I feel whole here. And I hope you will too.

 

xx

Sara De.

 

 

How to Share a Romantic Afternoon in Florence; Italy

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Sara and Shawn atop the Duomo // Florence; Italy

There will never be enough to say about beautiful Florence, Italy.  A quick hour and a half train ride from Roma, brings you to this Tuscan city. Red rooftops, and cobbled streets swirl around the cities crown jewel; il Duomo. Everything about the city screams romance. The rumble of music, laughter and joy amongst its streets brings warmth. The architecture, captivating. The museums, moving. This is the perfect place for you are your love to explore. Here is an afternoon itinerary full of romance in the home of renaissance.

Wake up slow, have a café and greet the day! Make sure to have a fueling lunch al fresco - you will need it with all the walking this day will entail! Here we go:

The Duomo: Start with a visit to the Santa Maria del Fiore, aka Duomo. This is one of the most popular sites in Florence to visit and rightfully so. This green, pink and white marble structure is a Gothic masterpiece. I literally gasped when our cab leading us into the city, turned to face it. It is breath taking in every sense of the word. There will surely be a line to climb to the top of the monument, and if you should want to challenge yourself with all 463 steps, it is absolutely worth the wait. A few notes I can offer: if you have spacial issues, or suffer from claustrophobia this would be something to consider. At 720 years old, the Duomo was not constructed with the modern tourist droves in mind. You can expect tight spiral, stone staircases, narrow walk-ways, and as you reach the final paces of your accession, very steep steps. Again, all worth it! Tired and ready for open air, walking out onto the rounded terrace is SURREAL. The tattered red roof tops and rolling Tuscan hills in the distance are your reward for completing the trek. Bravo to you! 

When you are on vacation, rarely are there any rules. Stop for dessert before dinner at Gelateria Edoardo (a gelataria that prides themselves on all organic and local options!) on your way out to your next destination, Ponte Vecchio!

Ponte Vecchio:  The Ponte Vecchio is an iconic Firenze bridge that connects both sides of the city. This medieval stone, enclosed arch-bridge hovers over the Arno River and houses small boutiques of jewelers, art dealers and souvenir shops. Grab a couple of postcards, take a couple pictures over the water, enjoy the street performers along the way and continue on South towards your climactic sunset destination Piazzale Michelangelo. There is a lot of walking to do while exploring a city. Refreshing yourself by grabbing a glass of wine at Bevo Vino in the Piazzetta di San Miniato before making your climb up the stairs of Scale del Monte alle Croci......Onto sunset!

Piazzale Michaelangelo at sunset // florence, italy

Piazzale Michelangelo: When we visited Florence last year, I knew before diving deep into the city that I was going to love it. Studying Renaissance Art in both high school and college, I was drooling over this place since the second I laid eyes on it. With the stunning Uffizzi Gallery having arguably the most important collection of the worlds most ground breaking masterpieces, this city knows a good thing when they see it. We found a whole new masterpiece at the top of Piazzale Michelangelo. The Piazzale is much like an outdoor amphitheater inviting you to have a seat on one of its many stairs to enjoy the view. I have made it a point to seek many gorgeous sunsets in my life and I can truthfully say that in 26 years, this was my absolute favorite. 

The rich rust colored roof tops cast deep shadows over the town. The golden glimmering Arno River cuts through the landscape. Clocktower bells ring in the distance reminding you that time is still passing even when it feels like it's standing still. The Duomo, bold and strong, governs over its beloved city. Ugh! I wish I could be there right now! It was a moment in time I will not soon forget. Every person should see this view and know this joy. It's a must!

Once you have come back down from heaven and your feet are firmly planted on the ground, make your way back to the North side of the city over the river. At this point you will have far passed your average "step count" for the day! When the sun goes down, the Italians eat! By now you will surely need it after all the exercise you have seen! For a mellow, no fuss, yet still epically romantic dinner head to All'Antico Vinaio. There may be a bit of a line peaking out of the small storefront, but it is WORTH IT. Build your own pannino to-go with all the best meats, veggies and fresh ingredients Toscana has to offer. Couple that with a bottle of wine, two plastic cups provided by All'Antico and finish the evening sitting along the stone walls in Piazza Del Signoria. The twilight above you, the trickling water of Fontana del Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune) bonding sweetly with the cellist sonata from a talent playing for tips. I can only hope your time is as idyllic as ours was. Savor your bites and sip your wine slowly - this is what life is ALL ABOUT. As you look up at the Palazzo Vecchio clock tower above you, you will notice that you have just enough time to get to Vivoli for one last scoop of Gelato before there close at Midnight. Don't miss out! Vivoli is said to be the best gelato in Florence, if not all of Italy. PRO TIP: At the intersection of Via del Proconsolo and Via Ghibellina there is (hopefully still there!) a random, stand-alone photobooth. Make memories in this one-off time capsule! Our photostrip is my most beloved souvenir of the whole trip!

At the end of a long afternoon we were proud of the distance we had walked, the heights we had climbed, the moments we let sink in hand in hand. I grew closer to my partner that day by letting this city take hold! 

I hope I have painted a picture for you that is desirable! This, for me, was an afternoon that has made such an impression on my heart, on the way I view my moments with my partner, on the way I savor sunsets, on the way I think about life and love and simple joys. If you end up in Firenze, send all my love. I cannot wait to return!

Preserve Your Penny:

  • Purchasing a bundle card could be a good option for a place like Florence with its 100's of museums and sites. See if the Firenze Card is a good investment for you during your stay! 
  • Though I believe it very important to experience a luxurious meal with a Florentine Steak, having a pannino in a piazza is a great way to fill up and save some dough.
  • Our Airbnb in the heart of Florence was exceptional and cheap! Consider this route over a pricey boutique hotel!
  • Eat where the Italians eat. Restauranteurs will try and lure you into their over priced, decent at best establishments, especially around the main attractions. Dig a little deeper - find a place where the patrons are speaking Italian and the menu is hard to read..... thats when you know it will be the better stuff!

 

xx

Sara De.

What to do with 48 Hours In Berlin; Germany

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Waiting for a train // Alexanderplatz Station; Berlin, Germany

Berlin is a special place.  So much history has swept through this capital city, it is only but a ghost of its former self. Berlin looks very different from the rest of Germany; from the rest of Europe even. The landscape have been bombed to bits throughout several wars, leaving very little of the typical "old world charm" seen in surrounding countries. But just because Berlin has lost many of its frescoed walls, does not mean Berlin has lost its beauty. In fact, I felt the true beauty was in that of its modern inhabitants. Warm, progressive, inviting and streamlined; this was Berlin!

If you only have 48 hours in this awesome city, this is what you do ......

Visit the East Side Gallery: The East Side Gallery is a mural and memorial on a 1 mile stretch of the Berlin Wall. This remaining portion of the wall can be found in Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg on MülhenstraBe. Take your time with all 105 works along the wall and really read into the emancipation message shared with each beautiful piece. There is no fee or entrance to view the gallery, it is simply a public monument for all to marvel.

Typography of Terror: With Germany, there is no escaping it's notorious past. It was the home of the worlds most powerful dictator who left a devastating footprint on history and human-kind. Berlin had seen the terrors of war continuously throughout the 20th century and instead of continuing to let it reign power over their lives today, Berliners have stared it in the face, turned fiercely way from the ideals of the past and proven that with love, compassion, and strength they could take their heritage back and create a brighter future for the modern German. The Typography of Terror is a indoor/outdoor historical museum located on the previous site of the Gestapo and SS Office during the 3rd Reicht. This space is a maze of visual displays chronologically guiding you through the rise and fall of the Hitler Regime as well as a portion of the Berlin Wall with relics shining light on their fight to freedom during the Cold War. Advisory: As the internal  exhibit progresses the content becomes far more graphic. I can assume you expect that knowing the atrocities of WW2 but I figured I would still mention. This is a building dedicated to the acknowledgment of Germany's troubled past through comprehensive displays. 

This FREE museum has guided tours and all of its written exhibitions in both German and English. Definitely a place to visit if you should seek solace with the ones lost and communities effected during those portions of history. 

Other notable sites: The Brandenburg Gate, The Reichstag, and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews for Europe.

THE WHERE TO's:

Where to grab a drink: KASCHK! Artisanal coffee by day and Bier pourers by night. I had one of the best nights of my life here in Prenzlauer Berg. Be sure to head downstairs to the basement for some shuffleboard fun! After you started with a few tall and cheap German craft beers, head to Brut around the corner for a classic cocktail. After a good nights rest, head to Roamers Coffee & Booze for a pick me up and idyllic storefront!

Where to grab a bite: Curry at the Wall! When in Berlin you must try their staple dish - currywurst! Besides wursts, Berlin is actually quite the cultural culinary city. We had delicious Thai food at Thai Window Asia, and even felt at home with some American fare across town in Gleimviertel at The Bird, ordering yummy Brooklyn style burgers and chops! Be ready for cash only and a strict medium-cook on your burger. Many places we visited in Europe WERE NOT into the "well done" option.

Where to shop: Berlin has EXCEPTIONAL flea markets. A stroll through the city on any given day can lead you to the treasures and trinkets of your dreams. Some information about the local flea markets and their schedules can be found here.

With only 48 hours, this should surely give you LOTS to do around Berlin. In my opinion, this is one of the most fascinating cities in Europe. The people are kind and eager to interact with travelers. The history: rich and important. The art, music and youth scene: abundant. No matter what you do, give into the adventure! Happy travels!

Preserve Your Penny:

  • Every site that I have listed above is a FREE attraction to explore. The Reichstag is the only landmark where you need to preregister before entry (being that it is the current parliament building of Berlin) - other than that bit of logistics, visiting the Reichstag dome is still free!
  • You get a lot of BANG for you BUCK when it comes to drinking German beer!  No need for fancy cocktails most days! Find yourself a biergarten and make the most of your day enjoying the weather and sharing some sips with friends!

xx

Sara De.